Wedding Guest dress
A lovely early autumn wedding was fast approaching and I decided to make a dress for the event. Never had I attempted such a thing, but my recent sewing activities gave me the confidence to go for it. No regrets!
This project added no less than five new skills, two new sewing notions, and one new sewing tool to navigate my way around. Kind of over ambitious, but ignorance is bliss, and perseverance is the key to success.
Skill #1: Adding an underlining.
So what exactly is underlining, and how does it differ from a lining? An underlining is a process by which a layer of light lining fabric is cut out in exactly the same manner as the main fabric, and fused, or sewn, to the wrong sides of the main fabric. Not to be confused with interfacing, which also adds stability to the wrong sides of fabric, but rarely (ever?) covers an entire section of a garment, underlining is hand stitched or, in my case, machine basted to the entire wrong sides of the main fabric.
TIP: Be sure to leave long threads at the start and end of each section of underlining when machine basting so you can easily pull these threads out after the pattern pieces are sewn together .
Why add underlining?
Underlining adds stability as well as decreasing sheerness to fabric. So, for example, and as in the photo of the model wearing the blue dress; if one is sewing with a sheer fabric, like eyelet, you will want to decrease the see-through aspect of the fabric unless you’re being deliberately cheeky! (Forgive the pun!)
How does Underlining differ from Lining?
In contrast to my description of the underlining, a lining is a complete, or almost complete replica of the garment itself, and is typically sewn into the garment from the neckline down. Typically one uses the same fabric as the underlining. In my case, I used a beautiful light cotton lining. I found this at a local fabric store that is filled with the most gorgeous fabrics. It’s true eye-candy for a fabric and sewing geek. (See link below). I’ll get to the process of adding a full lining a little later in this blogpost. And, yes, one sews both an underlining and a full lining to a garment. Sounds like overkill, but it’s not, and truly takes a garment to next level in terms of a professional finish.
Skill #2: Lining
As per the description above, a lining, or complete or almost complete replica of the garment is attached at the neckline. Typically, one sews the lining, right side facing to right sides of the main fabric, then turns the entire thing inwards to create a smooth and finished edge of the neckline. The lining hides all seams and stitching on the wrong sides of the main fabric, such that the garment looks great and professionally finished on the insides as well as the outsides. It’s next level, and aids in the long life and professional look and feel of a garment.
Skill #3: Princess Seams
Princess Seams are seams that typically run from the armhole, across the bust line, down to the waistline. These are duplicated on the back side of the top half, or bodice of the garment. Some princess seams run from the shoulders to the waistline, but not for this pattern. Princess seams add a flattering and sculpted fit to the bodice. Picture, (as in the photo from the front of the pattern,) a classic fairy tale princess and the type of gown she would wear.
Photo on left shows seams running from shoulders, photo on right shows seams from aremholes.
Skill #4: Invisible Zipper
How does an invisible zipper differ from a regular zipper? Essentially, an invisible zipper is just that. One doesn’t see the zipper at all. It should really just look like an almost imperceptible seam where the zipper is situated, unlike a regular zipper that is visible, and sometimes acts as a design element. In a more formal garment such as for a special occasion, an invisible zipper is the way to go. It’s a bit of a process to get it right, and I recommend trying this out on a test-drive garment. You will encounter all sorts of challenges, so practice it before installing on your final garment. There are numerous Youtube tutorials to guide you through the process. Until I am confident enough in this skill, I’ll leave it up to those expert sewists the provide guidance on this skill.
New Sewing Tool: Invisible Zipper presser foot
An invisible zipper presser foot is an inexpensive must-have in your sewing kit. Constructed such that the zipper teeth (wrong side of the zipper) fit in the groove of the presser foot, one can drop the needle down ever so close to the zipper, thereby creating a very tight and imperceptible zipper.
The zipper teeth are fed through either side of the grooves on the bottom of the presser foot.
IMPORTANT TIP! Honestly, this should be counted as another new skill, but I’m going to reserve that for another blog. Here’s the thing, though. I am long-waisted, so, when I took a test-drive with this pattern using thrift store fabric, I discovered the bodice was too short for my body. I therefore lengthened the bodice all around; that is, each pattern piece. The issue with this was that when I went to add the zipper to the garment, it was too short! So, note-to-self: purchase a longer zipper, or sew further up the back side of the skirt section to fit the zipper the pattern calls for.
This lovely frock took my sewing skills to a whole new level. I faced a few challenges, but persevered, and I am so pleased with the results. Sewing is such a journey. Whether you are a beginner sewist or one with decades and generations of sewing experience, we all face our challenges. It’s the joy of working through these snags that builds confidence and a wardrobe of purposeful, wearable clothing that are both a pleasure to wear and to be seen wearing. Keep at it. You won’t regret it.
